What would you do to split these rooms? I’ll use jack posts for the support. Do I use joist hangers? Mike Guertin: Balloon-framed walls are different than platform-framed walls; in balloon-framed walls, the studs are continuous from the mudsill all the way to the top plates on the uppermost floor where the rafters rest. The construction and additions cause most interior walls to be load bearing. If you need access under the house you have to go through the floor. I recently bought a single bedroom condo. As /u/decaturbob pointed out, the structural loads for those studs must rest on a new beam (LVL, glulam, steel, even aluminum). The side I live in has a disjointed mess for a layout. I think because of the half flight of stairs along part of the dividing wall a window is going to have minimal payoff. It is doable. The house is over supported in typical historic fashion so I think I could remove a beam or two without issue (I'd get this conformed first of course). the problem with cutting out the ballon studs on the perimeter IF you are doing that is not only the support of the floor above but the in the opening to place a header. However in most cases the load would need to be supported for the time between stud removal and header install. Thanks. There's no way this is up to code (capped hot wire behind the wall).. Back then a "header" was a 2x4 laid flat and just nailed in the ends from the side. Sign up for eletters today and get the latest how-to from Fine Homebuilding, plus special offers. Questions of a Do It Yourself nature should be Become a member and get unlimited site access, including the Is there a way to make the support polls look decorative if I remove drywall? You may freely link submitted to our "DoItYourself.com Community Forums". I think I'm going to expose the studs and dress them up. Would the Jack posts being 12 feet apart be enough to take the sponginess out of the floor? You can open up walls if you add an appropriately sized header and correct support studs. My house is a 1920s balloon framed duplex. The room is 15 feet wide and I feel a little sponginess. Ceiling joists rest on a central wall and add on room joists run perpendicular with ends resting on top of other interior walls. My plan is to build my own beam (24 ft long) using maybe 2- 2x10’s sandwiching plywood in between. Should I frame a wall and place a door in the wall. The studs are typically a … DoItYourself.com®, founded in 1995, is the leading independent Openings on non-bearing exterior walls (walls running parallel to the floor joist system) often don’t have a ledger. With my building inspectors if you use any engineered products like an LVL then they require engineering documentation, stamp and signature from a licensed Professional Engineer. Interior walls that "should" be non-load bearing can become load bearing as the building shifts and settles with age. The problem is the wall dividing them is load bearing. I only see an exterior photo. Do my new king studs and jack studs need to extend all the way down to the mudsill? Another idea is to get sliding doors. In my case, both the basement joists and attic rafters run parallel to this wall, but I'm unsure of which way the second floor joists run. The ledgers essentially act as headers and the studs surrounding the doors and windows act as jack studs, transferring the loads around the openings. Thanks for this!! I have grown to really hate it. I did this at my house with temp wall set 36in inside of outside wall in my dining room and another in my basement and the then the fun process of installing a header and in my case a 3x5x1/2" steel angle all without cracking my dining room ceiling and 2nd floor above. Four of which are 6ft spans that called for a doubled up 2x10 header with double king and jack studs on either side. A pass through window would be nice, allowing food and conversation to go between the rooms. Hi, I'm trying to remove a load bearing wall in a balloon frame house. You can look online for span tables. How about sistering joist to remove bounce in a balloon framed house's attic? View our Privacy Policy here. to this site, and use it for non-commercial use subject to our terms of use. Tutor's Assistant: OK. Tell me a bit more about what's going on so we can help you best. If your application falls within the span tables for traditional lumber then no Engineer is required for inspection but since you have an odd application it could go either way.

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